Hi guys!
This post took ages to prepare and write, but I wanted to make sure it's absolutely perfect for you! Nothing's more frustrating than spending money and time on a project that ends up not working! So, first of all, you need to head over to Sew Magazine's website and download the free pattern : https://www.sewmag.co.uk/free-sewing-patterns/raglan-sleeved-coat
Then, print your pattern, and get some lining material too, the same quantity as for the main fabric. You're ready to start!
STEP 1: Prepare the pattern
First , put your pattern together, and make the coat as instructed on Sew Mag, all the way BUT don't attach your facing to the coat.
I have sewn flat felled seams on my facing and a Hong Kong finish for the coat.
Now is time to start working on our pattern pieces to make them lining pieces. The pattern calls for a 5/8" seam allowance, so we're going to use the same (obviously, if for fitting reasons you change the seam allowance, you will report the same seam allowance that you used to make your coat).
First, I put my facing piece on m front piece, and drew to get the shape of the facing like so:
Since I put my facing on the left hand side, I drew my 5/8" seam allowance on the right hand side of the facing, and cut the left hand side of the drawing. The bit you will cut off will be exactly the same as your facing. This is what your front lining pattern piece will look like once you've prepared it: (I strongly recommend to write *Front Lining,cut 2 mirrored* to avoid any confusion later)
You need to add that same seam allowance to your facing pieces, like so on the back facing piece:Then,I took my back lining and my back main pieces, and put the back lining pattern on top of the back main piece like so:
You will trace a line on your back facing piece like shown on the picture above: it's a raglan, so this piece will be useful to us to prepare our sleeve lining pieces.
To tell you the truth, I wasn't too confident as for the sleeve lining bit. After all, it's the first time I draft a pattern *myself*, and since it's a raglan, it's not just reporting a facing to a main bit and i was terrified to make a mistake. So I put the coat right side facing up on my dummy, then I put the facing wrong side up (like I was about to sew it like Sew Magazine instructs) and pinned my pattern pieces underneath like so:
I traced around the facing on the pattern to get my sleeve lining pattern. I've added 5/8" seam allowance under the first line, and cut the upper bit that is the facing, like so:
Then, I have shorten all my pattern pieces by an inch at the hem, since it's usually what I observe on coat lining patterns. Report every notch, mark and indication on your new lining pieces. We're ready to cut the lining, if you want to make the 2 inner pockets follow the step 2, if you don't then simply sew all your lining pieces like you have done with your coat, and we'll meet you at step 3!
STEP 2: How to Make and Add 2 Inner Pockets To Your Lining
You need to cut some extra pieces of lining, interfacing and a bit of piping. To start with, cut 2 pockets (you will find a free template to download on my blog https://www.seweasypeasy.com/members and one rectangle of fabric to make a welt pocket .
The Inner Welt Pocket
I'd recommend a minimum of the width of your hand with the length of your hand plus 2 times 5/8" seam allowance. Double the length that you have chosen (we're going to fold the pocket in half) plus add 2 inches.
Fuse some strip of interfacing at the top of the pocket, minimum 2 inches wide on the wrong side. Finish the raw edges. Prepare the welt: an inch and a half from the top, draw a line. Then, 1/2" away from the left edge, draw a line. Repeat for the right hand side. Then you trace a line an inch below the first horizontal line, and you draw the middle at 1/2": this will be your cutting line. On that cutting line, half an inch away from the lines we have preciously traced, you mark a dot, then make a triangle like shown on the picture.. Pin in it to the desired place on your coat (I've chosen just near the facing, near the chest).
After that, , you will fold the big rectangle of fabric onto itself to make the pocket. Make sure you don't catch the lining and only the pocket :
Now, take your lining piece with the pocket to the sewing machine and sew along the outside rectangle you drew earlier, like so:
Press, and now you will cut your pocket , following the middle line and the triangles on side like shown on the picture above (it's what you drew earlier when we prepared our pocket). Then carefully put your pocket through. It should look like this:
You're almost there! Now just fold up a bit of fabric upwards to create a welt :
Now, sew around your pocket, don't forget to finish the edges and that's it! You've added a welt pocket to your lining! Now time for a nice cup of tea, feet up, and let's get on with our second inner pocket, with piping this time! Or if it's enough pockets for you, skip the following section to see how we will finish our coat!
THE PIPED POCKET
Now is time to make our second inner pocket. I've added some piping because I thought it looked so much better, and also makes it easier to know where your pocket opening is.
First, download your free pocket pattern here: https://www.seweasypeasy.com/members you need to register as a member.
Then you will cut 2 mirrored pieces, and trace your seam allowance (I used 5/8") on your pocket to help place your lining like so:
Sew your piping along the line :
Now, determine where you want your pocket to be. I chose to place it near my chest, and to use the fact that we need to join the facing with the lining to place my pocket like so:
Pin your pocket to the facing wrong side together, the one with no piping. Make sure your piping is properly enclosed in your lining, like so:
Pin your piped pocket wrong side together to your front lining piece.
Sew your lining to your facing, following the pocket seam like so:
And now, that's it, you just need to hem your lining ! And don't forget to treat yourself to a nice bubble bath with the music on, you've definitely earned it!
You add your buttons and you're good to go! You've just sewn a lovely woolen coat!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and that you will show me how your lining went by tagging me @seweasypeasy on Instagram , Twitter and Pinterest also on Facebook @seweasypeasyblog using #seweasypeasy to help me find your make!
Happy sewing,
Claire xx
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